Wood Deck Maintenance Guide
Why Deck Maintenance Is Important
Aside from being the best place to spend time outdoors, your deck is an investment. Taking regular maintenance steps will keep your deck looking its best, and will drastically extend its overall lifespan. Failing to regularly maintain your deck will cause the look and finish of your deck to degrade over time. It will also cause premature failure of your deck. If rot isn’t mitigated and sets in, a dangerous or even life-threatening situation can be created.
Wood is a beautiful, natural building material that is often chosen for exterior decking. Unfortunately, wood is susceptible to mold, rot, and insect infestation. Even pressure-treated lumbers designed for use outdoors are at risk. Some woods boast characteristics of being naturally rot and weather resistant, but they too require maintenance and care to keep mother nature at bay as long as possible.
1. Regular Deck Inspections
Inspecting your wood deck regularly is important; this includes wood framing of a composite deck. Rot and infestations can set in quickly, and when they do, the situation progressively gets worse. Inspecting your deck often will ensure you nip any potential problems in the bud. Be sure to take your time with the inspection and not rush things. There’s more to a deck than meets the eye, and problems often arise in difficult-to-see areas. Areas to pay special attention to are where stairs meet the ground, and at the ledger board-house connection. Look for wood that is rotting, has mold growth, or displays signs of insect infestation. These issues should be addressed immediately. Other issues that may arise during a regular deck inspection are loose or damaged boards, rusted or damaged hardware, or overall discoloration. This is also a great time to check the railings in your deck if you have them. Give them a firm tug back and forth. The railing should feel strong and sturdy, and play is not normal and should be addressed immediately.
2. Regular Deck Cleaning
Pressure-treated deck boards before and after a heavy cleaning with lots of scrubbing!
Cleaning may seem like a boring part of deck maintenance, but it’s extremely important. Even something as simple as regular sweeping can increase the lifespan of your deck, and keep it looking fresher, for longer. Leaves and other natural materials that inevitably settle on your deck’s surface will trap moisture and encourage mold growth and rot. Some natural materials such as black walnuts may stain your deck if left on the surface for too long. We recommend sweeping the surface to keep it free and clear of debris as often as possible. Turn it into a habit and it will pay dividends.
A more thorough cleaning should also be performed once to twice per year, ideally when the temperatures are mild, such as in the spring or fall. This thorough cleaning will help remove mold and mildew and will refresh the appearance of your deck.
Cleaning your deck:
Completely clear the deck surface and any other areas you wish to clean.
Sweep all debris off the deck. If you have a blower, this would be a great time to put it to use.
Pre-rinse the deck with a garden hose. If you are using a pressure washer, only do so on the lowest setting, with a fan attachment. Some models of pressure washers can damage the surface of your deck even on their lowest setting, so proceed with extreme caution.
Apply a biodegradable outdoor cleaner to the surface of the deck. Do not use bleach on your deck.
Scrub with a stiff bristle deck brush. Don’t use steel wool or metal brushes as these can damage the surface of your deck.
Rinse the deck with a garden hose.
Repeat steps 4-6 until your deck looks clean and fresh! Neglected or very dirty decks will require a deeper cleaning.
3. Deck Staining and Sealing
Staining or sealing a wood deck is an important step to extend the lifespan and keep it looking great! There are a variety of stain and sealant options available for exterior use on a deck. We don’t ever recommend painting a deck. Although it looks great right after it’s completed, painted decks tend to weather very quickly and end up looking tattered. Depending on the type of stain or sealant you use, and the type of wood your deck is constructed from, you may need to re-stain/seal every couple of years. If the surface of your already stained or sealed deck is looking beat up and weathered, it’s a great time to re-do it. Another great test is to pour some water onto the deck. If the board absorbs any moisture, it should be resealed. Water should bead up on top of a properly stained or sealed deck surface.
Always allow a 60-90 day weathering period after a new deck is installed prior to staining or sealing. Often the wood has been sitting in a mill or in a sheltered environment and once installed in place, it may undergo changes that would impact a stains finish for the first 2-3 months.
Perform a thorough cleaning of your deck as described in step 2 above, and allow it to dry completely.
Scrape off any loose pieces of old stain/sealant with a paint scraper.
Rough up the surface with a stiff brush.
At this stage, you may wish to sand your deck for a smoother, more uniform appearance. Sanding can improve the appearance of both freshly built, uncoated decks as well as previously sealed decks. Sanding can also increase the absorption of your coating leaving you with a better, more durable finish. If you don’t plan on sanding your deck, skip to step 7. When sanding, always wear appropriate breathing and eye protection.
Sand your deck with a random orbital sander where possible. In hard-to-reach areas, you may need to use a sanding block. We suggest using 60-100 grit on the deck boards, and 80-100 on balusters and railings. Sanding is more of an art than a science, so you may wish to progress with finer grades to achieve a smoother finish.
After you finish sanding your deck, sweep, blow or vacuum the surface to remove all sawdust. Clean the surface again thoroughly and allow it to completely dry.
We suggest letting the deck dry for at least 24 hours before proceeding with staining or sealing. Sealing on top of moisture will adversely impact the finish of your deck and may encourage rot.
Apply your desired stain or sealant as described by the manufacturer. Work in small sections to ensure uniform application. Try to avoid working in direct sunlight as this may cause the product to dry too fast.
A roller is a great way to apply stain or sealant, followed by a pass with a brush to clean up excess and get even coverage into the cracks. Depending on the type of product you choose and the type of wood your deck is constructed from, you may need to apply a second coat. Check the packaging of your specific coating for details.
Allow at least 24 hours for your deck to completely dry.
Enjoy your freshly re-sealed deck!
4. General Deck Repairs
Addressing items that need repairs or replacement is an important aspect of deck maintenance. Rotten or loose deck boards or railings present an injury risk that leaves you open to liability. Not to mention, a deck with rotten boards and rusty hardware just looks plain awful. There are many deck repairs that you as the homeowners can perform yourself, with others better left to the professionals.
Replacing Damaged Wood Deck Boards:
Deck boards that have heavy splintering, or have visible cracks should be replaced. Deck boards that show signs of rot or insect infestation should also be replaced. Replacing individual deck boards is an easy job that most homeowners feel comfortable performing on their own with a few basic tools.
Identify and remove damaged boards. Your deck boards may be held onto the frame with screws, nails, or hidden fasteners. For boards affixed with screws or hidden fasteners, simply undo all the screws. For deck boards affixed with nails, use a claw hammer or deck-wrecker bar to pry the damaged board up from the frame.
Once you have the problem boards removed, inspect the frame underneath for damage.
Determine the type of replacement boards you need to buy. If you are unsure, speak to the deck builder or reach out to an expert for help. Often, posting a photo online to a forum like Reddit can help you determine what type of wooden deck boards you have.
Carefully measure the length of the boards to be replaced. Depending on where you buy your deck boards, it may be possible to have them cut to the appropriate length in store.
Once the deck board(s) are cut to the appropriate length, lay them in place. If your deck boards are fit snuggly together, you may need to use your foot to stomp the board into place. If you have spacing between your boards, be sure to set the appropriate gap on each side of the board.
Once you are happy with the placement and fit of the new deck board(s), it’s time to secure them in place. You may be able to re-use the old hardware depending on its state, but it never hurts to use fresh, new hardware.
Work from one end of the board carefully nailing or screwing the board to the framing. If you need to adjust the gap spacing on either side of the board, you can use a large screwdriver between the boards to pry it in the direction you need. Pay special attention to the neighboring deck boards and the hardware locations. Make sure your nails or screws are actually hitting the framing underneath the deck board, or it won’t be attached to anything! If you are using screws, do not sink the heads into the wood. The heads of the hardware should be flush with the surface of the deck.
Walk over your freshly replaced deck board(s) paying attention to how they feel underfoot. If there is any movement or buckling at all, chances are your hardware hasn’t grabbed into the framing below.
If your deck has been neglected, or if you have many damaged boards, it may be a great time to consider a complete deck surface replacement. We suggest this when the deck’s structural framing is still in excellent condition, but deck boards have been damaged. Never install new deck boards onto a damaged or rotting wooden frame.
Replacing Damaged Skirting or Fascia:
Fascia and skirting on a pressure treated wood deck
Because skirting and fascia are closer to the ground or vegetation, they are often the first areas to develop rot, insect infestations, and others problems. Luckily, replacing these items can be an easy DIY task that most homeowners with a basic set of tools can tackle themselves! The first step is to determine what pieces you need to replace and to buy appropriate replacement material. If you aren’t sure what material to get, speak to the company that built your deck, post photos online, or bring photos into the hardware store for assistance. The material used for deck boards is often the same as used for fascia. In the case of the deck to the right, that's a 5/4x6 pressure-treated deck board. Skirting is often made up of fence boards, in the case of the deck pictured to the right, it’s 1x6 pressure-treated fencing.
Fascia boards are often mitered to a 45 degree joint on the ends. It will be very difficult for a homeowner to cut these angles without access to a miter saw.
Start by removing the damaged pieces of skirting or fascia, paying close attention to how they are attached. The pieces will either be screwed or nailed to the framing behind.
Using the old skirting or fascia, measure and mark the appropriate sizes onto the new material and cut to size.
To reinstall a facia board, first, get someone to help you support one end. Starting from one side, install the screws into the fascia board to attach it to the deck framing.
Work your way down the fascia board, installing screws every 18”. Have your helper move the board up or down as you go to keep it flush with the surface of the deck as you install.
To install your new skirting, place the piece tight up against the bottom of the fascia, and install the top screws making sure they grab into the framing behind, followed by the bottom screws. If your skirting was installed with nails, you may wish to use those instead to keep a uniform look.
Pay close attention to the gap between the skirting as this allows airflow under the deck.
Replacing Damaged Railings and Components:
Example anatomy of a wood and aluminum baluster deck railing.
Repairing or replacing railings and balusters may be a little more tricky for the average homeowner. There are a variety of railing and baluster configurations used in deck construction today, and their installation procedures can be vastly different. Because railings and balusters act as important safeguards against accidental falls, we recommend consulting a professional when it comes to repairing or replacing these items. Depending on how your railings were installed, removal of framing and structural blocking may be necessary in order to perform repairs or replacements.
Railings that appear in good condition but feel loose or wobbly probably don’t require replacement, but rather a reinstallation of hardware and structural blocking underneath.
To the left is an example railing configuration commonly found on wood decks. Below, I will cover some basic repairs that homeowners may feel comfortable performing themselves on this style of railing, and how to approach them.
Replacement of Damaged Top Cap:
Replacing a piece of damaged top cap is quite straightforward, and many homeowners can probably tackle this task on their own. Start by inspecting the top of the top cap to see how it’s affixed to the upper rail below. Next, remove the screws from the top cap. On corners and miters, there may be screws in the edge of the top cap. Carefully pull up and remove the section of top cap, it should come up very easily. If you feel any resistance, check again for any missed screws. Determine the type of material used and source a replacement. In the photo above, the top cap is 2x6 pressure-treated lumber. 5/4x6 pressure-treated deck boards are also commonly used for the top caps. Measure the old piece of top cap, and replicate its size onto the replacement piece of material. Pay special attention to cutting miters and joints to ensure a clean, snug fit. Once your new piece of top cap is cut to size and shape, re-install it the same way you removed the old piece. If your top cap has a miter joint along the section you are replacing, it’s best to start there and work your way down the piece. Be sure that the top cap stays centered on the upper rail below. When screwing through the top cap, do so carefully ensuring the screws grab into the upper rail and don’t poke out the sides.
Replacement of Damaged Upper or Lower Rails or Balusters:
CAUTION: Before you proceed, remember that railings are an important safety feature of decks. If you plan on removing sections of railing for repair or replacement, always block the area off with tape, or consider erecting a temporary barrier to prevent falls.
Replacing damaged sections or upper and lower rail is a little more complicated, but many homeowners may still wish to tackle this project on their own. First, start by removing any top cap that’s in the way as outlined in the paragraph above. Next, remove the screws from the railing connectors on the upper rails. Once all the screws are removed, carefully lift the upper rail off of the aluminum balusters. The balusters are pressure fit and may want to come up with the upper rail. Hold the balusters firmly in place with downward force while pulling up the upper rail, to ensure the balusters stay affixed to the lower rail. Next, remove the balusters from the lower rail by pulling them up firmly. Finally, remove the hardware from the lower-rail railing connectors and remove the bottom rails. Next, select the appropriate replacement material for your rails and cut them to the appropriate length by measuring the old rails. You can place the old rails on top of your new material to mark the exact size for a trouble-free fit. Using the old rail(s) as a template, mark the locations for the baluster connectors on the new rail. Unscrew the baluster connectors from the old rail, and re-install them onto the new rail ensuring they are centred. Remove the railing connectors from the old rails and install them onto the new rail. Reinstall your bottom rail the same way you removed the old one. Use the old holes in the railing posts to help you line it up. Once the lower rail is in place, reinstall the balusters into the baluster connectors by pressing them into place firmly. If any balusters were damaged or weathered badly, replacing them now is a great idea. Reinstalling the upper rail onto the balusters can be tricky, you may find it easier to have the assistance of another person. Start by lowering one side of the rail into place carefully moving the balusters into their connectors. Continue working down the rail slowly tapping it down as you down and lining up each individual baluster. Once all of the balusters are set into their connectors, fully set the upper rail into place by hitting it down with a mallet or similar object. Using the hole in the rail post as guides, re-install the new railing. All that’s left now is to re-install your top cap and you’re all done!
Replacement of Deck Railing Posts:
Deck railing posts often have structural blocking underneath the deck framing that would require extensive work to remove and replace. Because this work involves structural elements to the framing, we don’t recommend attempting to replace or repair deck railing posts on your own.
5. Snow Removal and Winter Deck Care
Ontario’s winter weather can take a toll on your wooden deck. Moisture can get into cracks in the wood and freeze, making the damage worse. Some homeowners go as far as to cover their wooden deck with a tarp over the winter, to limit exposure to snow and ice, but it’s not something I’ve ever done personally. The best defence against the winter elements for your deck is ensuring it’s properly stained or sealed regularly, and any damaged or cracked wood is addressed promptly. Additionally, you’ll want to keep the deck free and clear from snow and ice as much as possible. Use a broom to sweep light snowfalls off the deck. Use a plastic shovel to remove larger snow loads, shovelling in the direction the boards run to avoid damage. Never use a metal shovel or scraper to remove ice or snow from a deck. Avoid using salt or other de-icers on a deck as these can stain or discolour the wood.
Other Preventative Maintenance Tips
Keep gutters and downspouts near the deck free of debris, and in good working order.
Keep plants and vegetation trimmed back at least 12 inches (30cm) back from any part of the deck to increase air movement.
Keep yard debris and leaves from piling up near the corners of your deck or skirting.
Periodically re-arrange furniture and other items on the deck to avoid creating deck tan lines.
Avoid placing rugs or carpets on the deck, especially those made of natural materials. These will trap moisture and cause mold growth and eventually rot.
Never drag heavy furniture or other items over the surface of the deck.